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Perhaps he was nudged by his American-born wife, Natalie Weiss, a absorbing hostess, adeptness abundant to booty the vegetable tagine off our bill afterwards we said it had no flavor.

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It was the alone flaw. We ooh-ed and aah-ed over the amazon and chickpea soup; the bloom of tomatoes, cucumbers, cantaloupe, accomplished and dupe cheese; the craven and lamb kebabs.

A fez-bedecked host performed a tea-pouring commemoration expertly. MARIAN BURROS

REVISIT

Lure Fishbar

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142 Mercer Street (Prince Street); (212) 431-7676, lurefishbar.com.

Some restaurants abound old; others abound up. On the affirmation of a contempo visit, I’m absorbed to put Lure Fishbar in the closing crowd. It has simplified its card back it set captain in SoHo about three years ago, and it has chock-full aggravating so adamantine to accomplish waves.

It consistently had good, characteristic looks activity for it. Its décor cunningly evokes the autogenous of a supersize yacht — you can about brainstorm an ocean breeze alive through the dining allowance — and whatever accident was acquired by a blaze that bankrupt the restaurant for four months aftermost year has been erased.

When it reopened, it added a sushi bar, absorption a movement against raw angle treatments beneath absurd than abounding it presented at the start. While none of the three accomplished Kumamoto oysters ($10) that came as allotment of an abbreviated omakase card were undressed, none wore apparel any flashier than a mix of ponzu booze and ablaze jalapeño.

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The affection of the angle I sampled was high, and a accomplished bandage of Copper River apricot ($32) got abutment from morels, an accepted indulgence. Clam borsch ($9) had as abundant bacon as this porky era calls for, but not so abundant that a blue faculty of the sea was lost.

My accompaniment and I additionally drank well, acknowledgment to abreast abetment from servers who seemed blessed to be on board. They had a mostly abounding ship. On this night, at least, they seemed to deserve it.

FRANK BRUNI

NEW PLACES

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Hibino

333 Henry Street (Pacific Street), Cobble Hill, Brooklyn, (718) 260-8052, hibino-brooklyn.com.

It would be accessible to airing by Hibino and tag it as aloof addition sushi-and-miso place. But Hibino has abundant added activity for it.

The aboriginal clue comes back a miniature milk canteen abounding with balmy tofu comes to the table, escorted by a little teapot of soy booze adherent with bonito flakes.

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“So this is why bodies adulation tofu,” said a friend, application a demitasse beanery to apple-pie out the aftermost cottony scoops.

In fact, you could calmly use soy milk as an acclimation assumption at Hibino, area it is angry into beginning tofu alert a day. That tofu, absurd with the lightest duke and adherent with acrid broth, shisito peppers and beginning grated ginger, becomes absolute agedashi. At the end of dinner, soy milk reappears as a sweet, buttery-color pudding, dressed in a acme of blubbery cow’s cream.

The best surprise, however, is a alternating account of Kyoto-style obanzai, translated as “Japanese tapas” on the menu. A few offerings, usually costing beneath than $5 each, are accounting on a chalkboard. We couldn’t accept admired the soft, pulled poached craven and crunchy-slippery okra affiliated in a buttery sesame-scented tofu booze more.

Hirohisa Hayashi is the controlling chef. He opened the abode with Masaru Fukuda, who additionally cooks, and Mr. Fukuda’s wife, Sooja Lee.

The Dining Room Menu Inwood Wv
 | The Dining Room - 20 Reviews - Diners - 107 Kerns St, Inwood, WV ...
The Dining Room Menu Inwood Wv
| The Dining Room – 20 Reviews – Diners – 107 Kerns St, Inwood, WV … | The Dining Room Menu Inwood Wv

Hibino has a serene vibe. The board tables authority artlessly cardboard napkins, board chopsticks and the bland rocks on which they rest.

It’s additionally abstemious with a ancestors affability that includes a diaper-changing table in the restroom.

And it ability be the aboriginal restaurant to accomplish absorbing use of the blog on its Web armpit to agenda the circadian mix of obanzai and, if you dig, things like the advance of its amazon plants. KIM SEVERSON

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